Wednesday 28 January 2015

Gothic Horror Genre Origins + Research

The Genre of Gothic Fiction is thought to have been started by Horace Walpol and his novel 'The Castle of Otranto'. The genre was made popular in 1794 with Anne Radcliffe's series of novels beginning with 'Mysteries of Udolpho'. It was Radcliffe who introduced many of the dominant themes in what is now thought of as the typical Gothic Fiction genre, such as a brooding villain and a romantic element to the novel. The genre became increasingly popular throughout the 19th Century with books such as Frankenstein (1818), The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde (1886) and Dracula (1897).

Gothic Architecture followed on from Romanesque Architecture, a basic looking style used by the ancient Romans and the Greeks. When the Roman empire ended the invaders added onto existing buildings and ruins and developed the intricate, grand style known as Gothic Architecture today.
Roman buildings were extremely plain, dark, cold and just built to serve a purpose. Gothic architecture was the first time that buildings had been built to look aesthetically pleasing, and included lots of ornate detail and gargoyles. The building style was also improved through the use of Flying Buttresses and Ribbed Vaults, that directed the weight of the building downwards to stop it collapsing in on itself. This allowed for the signature tall, pointed arches associated with the Gothic style. A large amount of Europe's Churches, Cathedrals and Abbeys are built in this style, such as Westminster Abbey and the Duomo Cathedral in Milan.

The word Gothic originated from the slightly eerie look of Gothic Architecture such as Westminster Abbey, as most Gothic Horror novels dealt with dark themes and so their natural settings were in buildings such as Churches, Monasteries, Abbeys and Castles

The Duomo in Milan + The Cologne Cathedral in Germany

The Reims Cathedral + Chartres Cathedral (both in France)



Example of Ribbed Vaults at Salisbury Cathedral 


Flying Buttresses 

When we were first introduced to the topic of Gothic Horror and the Victorian Era,  I thought it seemed a strange time for such dark literature to be so popular. The Victorians took huge steps industrially, but in many ways this era was much more reserved than in previous years. Britian was very much governed by a strict class system, with only a small number being considered 'upper class'. It was a time of great gender inequality, while in the lives of Men a lot was changing due to economic changes, Women were still very much housewives serving the same role they had for years. The rules on fashion were possibly stricter than in previous era's as more of the body was covered by layers of heavy clothing and Women were supposed to refrain from wearing make up and being sexual as it was frowned upon in the eyes of God.
I did some further research into the time and noticed that this was a time of drastic Scientific progress, light was introduced to homes and being a Scientist was for the first time considered a respectable job. In 1859 Charles Darwin released his novel 'Origins of a Species' telling his theories of evolution, which caused huge controversy and led to much discussion of the battle of science vs religion. Most people use literature as a way of escaping, and reading transports them into a world more interesting than their own. I feel for the Victorians, this is exactly why they enjoyed the Gothic Genre so much. It pushed all the boundaries of their society with novels such as Frankenstein relating to the medical possibilities being realised at the time. Although this era was very forward thinking in the development of machinery and science, socially people were still very stuck in their ways which could of lead to a feeling of boredom. The Gothic genre is all about broadening the horizons on what people deemed possible as people love the excitement and fear of new things.

Cologne Cathedral (no date). Cologne Cathedral. Available at: http://www.destination360.com/europe/germany/cologne-cathedral (Accessed: 28 January 2015).
Edd (no date) The Seven Key Characteristics of Gothic Architecture (Con’t). The Seven Key Characteristics of Gothic Architecture: From the Gargoyle to the Flying Buttress. Available at: http://www.exploring-castles.com/characteristics_of_gothic_architecture_2.html (Accessed: 28 January 2015).
Flying Buttress (no date). Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Available at: https://blogs.commons.georgetown.edu/arth-101-spring2013/2013/04/18/flying-buttress/ (Accessed: 28 January 2015).
Gothic fiction (no date) New World Encyclopaedia. Contents. Available at: http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Gothic_fiction (Accessed: 28 January 2015).
Milan Cathedral (no date) Wondermondo. Milan Cathedral | Wondermondo. Available at: http://www.wondermondo.com/Countries/E/IT/Lombardy/MilanCathedral.htm (Accessed: 28 January 2015).
reims cathedral france (no date). reims cathedral france. Available at: http://factimages.com/reims-cathedral-france/cdn1.images.touristlink.com*repository*R*E*I*M*S*C*A*T*reims-cathedral.jpg/www.touristlink.com*france*reimscathedral*overview.html/ (Accessed: 28 January 2015).
(no date). Front View Chartres Cathedral - Americans in France. Available at: http://www.americansinfrance.net/attractions/Chartres-Cathedral-View-4.cfm (Accessed: 28 January 2015).

Saturday 24 January 2015

Ageing Make up for Theatre


We learned in class about techniques used in Theatre to give an aged effect. Although these effects may not look 100% realistic up close, they serve their purpose in theatre when make up must be far heavier applied as so to still impact people sat far back. 
We were introduced to some new products such as the Kryolan Tooth Enamel which depending on the colour, creates the look of rotten or missing teeth. We were also shown how to use Old Age Stipple which is a form of latex which can be layer up and manipulated to look like wrinkles in the skin. 

HOW TO: Ageing for Theatre 

Equipment:
Smooth Sponge
Small angled brush
Foundation Brush
Foundation Palette
Supra Colour 
Disposable Mascara Wand
Cotton Buds
Kryolan Tooth Enamel 

- Start by moisturising the skin to prep the face, this will also aid the blending of product
- At this point you have the option to add a base if you want a more attractive look
- Make a brown shade from the Yellow, Blue and Red in your Supra Colour palette and darken with black if needed. 
- Get your model to scrunch up their face into different positions to see the natural folds of their skin
- Use your angled brush to apply the brown shade into these creases
- Blend out for a more natural effect
- Contour the hollows of the cheeks and sides of the nose to fake the natural loss of fullness that comes with ageing 
- Brush an off white shade through the lashes and brows to give a greyed effect
- Use cotton buds to dry the teeth you want to apply enamel to, and brush on the Kryolan enamel. 



For a first attempt I was happy with the aged effect I created. I prefer the look in photographs to how I did in person, which I understand as the make up was applied extra heavily so it would show up better on camera and from far away. The wig definitely adds to the finished effect and makes it much more convincing. I would like the redness I added to show up better so next time will make this more obvious so it picks up on camera. 

Hair in the Victorian Era

Due to the fact that the Victorian Era ran from 1837 to 1901, Fashion and particularly hairstyles changed throughout this time. Most hairstyles can be divided into either early or late Victorian styles, as there was a noticeable change in hair about halfway through the era.


Early Victorian hairstyles featured either a mid or high bun, which had been twisted into shape. I noticed from pictures that sometimes the hair was plaited before being twisted into the bun to give a different effect and would help to deal with the length of the women's hair (Women did not cut their hair in the Victorian Period). This twisting method was the original method of bun making that came before contemporary styles such as the 'Fake Donut' method that we learned in class. The hair was centre parted and slicked flat to the head. The signature look of the early Victorian years was the very short, tight curls which hung at around the jaw length. These curls were sometimes twisted and looped over the ears, but the weight always stayed around jawline. The favoured accessory in this time was the Bonnet.


From 1860 onwards, the hairstyles became a lot softer and more romantic. The curls on the sides of the face became longer, and were sometimes also worn at the back of the head. The curling tongs were invented in 1866, these first versions were simply a metal rod which was warmed in a miniature oven, and the hair was wrapped around to create the curl. Women discovered using padding 'rats' made from their old hair which they would gather up, and use to create larger looking hairstyles. Hairstyles slowly grew over the next decade, and it was popular to either cut a fringe in, or pin the curls so to look like a fringe. Hair decorations became increasingly popular and women started using flowers, ribbons and even jewelled combs to decorate the hair. Hairstyles became tighter into the head towards the end of the era but kept the height on the top, often in a tight tile bun. Francois Marcel had invented the 'Marcel Wave' in 1972 which created more loosely crimped looking styles.


The Barrington House Educational Center, L.L.C. (no date) Bartos Collection. The Barrington House Educational Center, L.L.C. Available at: http://bartoscollection.com/vehairstylesbyera.html (Accessed: 24 January 2015).

Victorian Era (no date). Victorian Era. Available at: http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk (Accessed: 24 January 2015).

Wednesday 21 January 2015

Neill Gorton


Last week we had a lecture from Neill Gorton who is an award winning prosthetic artist who has worked hit films and shows such as Saving Private Ryan and Doctor Who. He Co owns Millennium FX which is a leading Prosthetic Company, and owns his own studio named Gorton Studio. This studio was the first school in Europe specifically focused on prosthetics. I particularly love his work on Doctor Who!

He started his talk by telling him about himself, but the talk was very focused on giving us a reality check and some harsh truths about the industry. Neill told us that only 10% of students will go on to be successful make up artists in TV and film and although I knew that this industry is very competitive, I didn't expect the percentage to be quite so low. I learnt that although having a degree is a great start and doing well at this course is very important, it really is the work we produce and how hard you work to develop the skills you learn here that will secure your future in the industry. He really drummed in that your motivation for this career must be that you are really passionate about what you are doing, as there are a lot of 14 hour days to come! He told us that as the competition to become a make up/prosthetic artist is growing, pay rates in the industry are going down. We were slightly shocked to find out some of the rates of pay, especially when you are having to pay your travel and kit expenses too. Make up artists these days are mostly freelance, and so you are in constant competition, and will always be applying for jobs.

Neill also talked about some of the amazing opportunities and bonuses that come from working in the Make up industry - He has been lucky enough to travel frequently for free, has a job that he knows he won't ever get bored of as it is ever changing, and most importantly is being paid to do what he loves.

Some examples of Neills work..




Kinja (no date). Neill Gorton, Millennium FX. Available at: http://io9.com/5037133/neill-gorton-millennium-fx (Accessed: 21 January 2015).


Thursday 15 January 2015

Introduction to 'Gothic Horror' and Victorian Beauty Ideals

Our next project is focused on the Victorian Period and particularly a 'Gothic Horror' theme. I didn't know too much about this time period apart from that the make up was quite neatral toned so I did some research to find out more.

The reign of Queen Victoria was longer than any other British Monarch, lasting 63 years. As the Victorian Era spanned over such a long period of time, the ideals of beauty changed throughout. Initially, an upper class Victorian woman was supposed to look very natural, wearing only a little powder, and keeping any colours on the lips and cheeks very neutral. Brighter more garish colours were widely associated with Prostitutes, which is a complete flip from in the Elizabethan period we studied last term in which obvious make up demonstrated wealth and class. During this time, many religions also banned cosmetics, calling them 'immoral'. Women were supposed to look very innocent, natural and demure and show sexual restraint.

Hair was a great signifier of beauty in this time period, Women took pride in keeping their hair long and healthy. We studied Plaits and Buns last term, and they were also very commonly used techniques in Victorian hair. Victorian women favoured quite subdued, subtle hairstyles, such as being pulled back into a low bun. Occasionally some hair was left out at the front and curled, which gave a softer look. Oil was often used in to help control the hair and keep it pulled back. Facial hair was popular in Men at this time, but the hairstyles were shorter than ever before. As far as clothing, Victorian Women wore an excessive amount of layers, often consisting of multiple petticoats made from different fabrics, which were very heavy to wear. The final layer was often embroidered and decorated with pleats and tucks. The upper class would have their clothes made from expensive fabrics such as Silks and Velvet.






















Beauty in the Victorian age (no date) Beautiful With Brains. beautifulwithbrains says. Available at: http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/ (Accessed: 15 January 2015).
Beauty through the ages - the Victorians (no date) The Beauty Biz. Beauty through the ages - the Victorians - The Beauty Biz - Article. Available at: http://www.thebeautybiz.com/87/article/history/beauty-through-ages-victorians (Accessed: 15 January 2015).
Little Penny Dreadful (no date). Little Penny Dreadful. Available at: http://littlepennydreadful.tumblr.com/image/57808147499 (Accessed: 15 January 2015).
(no date a). Victorian. Available at: http://indulgy.com/post/ZTzX82WpI1/victorian (Accessed: 15 January 2015).
(no date b). Available at: http://www.thetudorswiki.com/page/More British Royal Tiaras#fbid=fRTmdT30B-b (Accessed: 15 January 2015).