Thursday 26 February 2015

Bruises, Cuts, Split lip + Dry Skin


BLACK EYE:

Needed:
Supra Colour Palette
Small Brush
Glycerine 

Method:
1. I started off by mixing some more bruise like colours in my palette. I dulled down colours such as the green or purple by adding brown to make them more muted. 
2. I applied a purpley shade all around the socket and over the lid. 
3. I added a greenish yellow shade over the top to make the bruising look older and less freshly done.
4. I applied a dark browny purple shade underneath the eye and in the tear duct. 
5. Black eyes often have a sheeny look to them so I applied some glycerine over the area. 




SPLIT LIP

As you can see from the picture above, I don't think this went too well in class. I ran out of time but I think I needed to add more layers of product to the area and shape the lip again to achieve the desired effect. 

Needed: 
Barrier Cream
Non Flexible Collodion
Hairdryer
Craft Knife

Method:
1. Apply the barrier cream to protect the area
2. Apply the Collodion to the area on the lip
3. Press the side of the craft knife where you want the cut to be, and fold the lip round it either side to create an indentation. 
4. Use your hairdryer to dry the product in shape
5. If needed you can add more product until the cut is more prominent. 


CUTS

Needed:
Plastic Wax
craft knife
Lash Glue
Spatula
Powder
Cleanser
Pin
Liquid Latex
Hair Dryer
Supra Colour
Foundation palette
Fake Blood

Method:
1. Warm up some wax on the back of your hand to make it a usable consistency 
2. Mould the wax into your desired shape, and then stick to the skin. If having trouble sticking you can use some lash glue, and use cleanser to help blend the edges into the skin. 
3. Create a cut in the wax using your craft knife. 
4. Use a pin to pull open and tug at the cut until you are happy with the shape. 
5. Apply liquid latex on top of the wound and stipple out to blend with the skin. 
6. Dry with a hairdryer
7. Once the wound is dry you start to add colour, I used a colour from my foundation palette that matched the wound and used this all over. 
8. I then used the red supra colour to give a red appearance to the skin of the wound and surrounding area. 
9. I applied a dark brown shade into the wound to add depth.
10. I dripped some fake blood into the would, and then raised the arm so it poured out naturally. 


DRY SKIN: 

Needed:
Barrier Cream
Old age Stipple
Sponge
Pin
Supra Colours
Small Brush
Hair dryer

Method: 
1. Apply Barrier Cream to the area
2. Using a sponge apply old age stipple all over the area, feathering out the edges to make sure it blends naturally.
3. Using a hair dryer on a cool setting, dry the area
4. I carefully used a pin to pull at the area, creating tiny open flaps of skin.
5. using my supra colour palette I painted in red sores to these areas.

I think if I were to do this again, I would make the entire area more red looking, to give a sorer effect all over. 






Sunday 22 February 2015

Two Different Miss Havisham Looks


For this lesson we were told to pick between Miss Havisham and Estella, and then create a look from a two different points in their life on their face. I chose Miss Havisham and decided that I wanted to show her on her wedding day, and then later in the book to show the contrast and the effects of self neglect and depression. To re create Miss Havisham's wedding make up I had to do some research into the Georgian period as Estella is a teenager in the early Victorian years, so it would of been the late Georgian era when Miss Havisham was supposed to be married. Georgian make up is far more in your face than Victorian, with a very pale base, and rosy shades used on the eyes, cheeks and lips. I don't feel like the make up is showing up very well on camera, but I used a pink shade all over the eyelid with a darker rose shade in the crease. Georgian women often also added a beauty spot, made of velvet or occasionally mouse skin for the lower class. I didn't have these materials on hand, so I used eyeliner to create my spot. I read that these marks often had meanings associated with them, dependant on the location they were placed on the face. Placement on the left cheek is associated with being engaged to a lover, which is perfect for Miss Havisham on her wedding day. 

My Georgian inspiration image...
Smashinbeauty, P. B. (2011) ‘Marie Antoinette – Georgian makeup / Å¡minkanje’. SmashinBeauty. Available at: http://smashinbeauty.com/marie-antoinette-georgian-makeup-sminkanje/ (Accessed: 22 February 2015).


For the next side of the look I wanted to show Miss Havisham when Pip first meets her. Looking frail and aged and like 'The Witch of the place'. I wanted to steer clear of theatrical ageing techniques for this look and experiment with just using grey toned shadows to hollow out the face to give a thin, dark, sunken look. I feel like I could of gone darker with these shadows to make sure they pick up on camera. I didn't add wrinkles as such, but I added shading to the places that over time would become more sunken such as the hollows of the eyes and cheeks, sides of the nose and I lightly shaded the area going from the nose down to the lips as I feel this gets more prominent in old age.


I also quickly experimented with the hair at the end. I didn't have time to create a Georgian or Early Victorian hairstyle, so I simply put it up with a bun and on the older side, experimented with curling small pieces of hair and pulling strands out. I also backcombed to give a messier effect.

Friday 13 February 2015

Burns

Needed:
Gelatine
Bowl 
Microwave
Hair Dryer
Spatula
Sponge
Stippling Sponge
Tiny Brush
Supra Colours
Glycerine

1. Melt the Gelatine by putting it in the microwave, check first after 15 Seconds. 
2. Make sure the Gelatine is not too hot for your client
3. Using the Spatula, spread the Gelatine on to the skin in the texture desired for your burn, making    sure to thin out the edges.
4. Using the cold setting, dry the area with the hairdryer
5. Powder the area
6. I used a sponge, and then my finger to blend a red supra colour shade all over the area
7. Use your small brush to add details such as darkened blood or pus. 
8. To re create the natural shine of burned skin, dab some glycerine over the area. 


Saturday 7 February 2015

Effects of Miss Havisham's confinment

Dry and Flaking Lips, Skin and Nails:
As a result of not eating and drinking well enough, Miss Havisham's skin, hair and nails would have suffered. She would of aged beyond her years due to a lack of moisture in her skin, causing premature wrinkles and creasing. The areas of the skin prone to dryness such as elbows, nose, lips and knees could be scabbed and flaking. Hair needs moisture to grow healthily, so I can imagine Miss Havisham's would be very straggly, thin and lacking in shine. To achieve this effect I could use the techniques we learnt in class the other day using Old Age Stipple to create a dry, chapped skin effect. For hair I would use dry shampoo to dull down any shine and give a grey cast to the hair.



Thin Frame:
Obviously Miss Havisham would have been eating, but I would imagine she would be only eating and drinking the bare minimum to stay alive. As a result she would look very scrawny, with her collarbones prominent and a sunken look to her face. With her lack of exercise and vitamins such as Calcium, she could have developed Osteoporosis, a disease affecting Bone density. The results of this could be very hunched posture and being unable to stand up straight. To accentuate Miss Havisham's frail look, I would heavily contour the parts of the face which would be sunken, the hollows of the cheeks, sides of the nose and the temples. I would also contour the tendons in the neck and the collarbones to make them appear more prominent.




No Sunlight:
Sunlight is very important as it provides the body with Vitamin D. Vitamin D is often associated with happiness and a deprivation can trigger depression. Like Calcium, Vitamin D is essential for healthy, strong bones and a lack of this could cause Rickets, as well as Osteoporosis mentioned earlier.



Diagnosing Different Nail Types (no date). NAILS Magazine. Available at: http://www.nailsmag.com/article/1264/diagnosing-different-nail-types (Accessed: 7 February 2015).
Do skinny people get more wrinkles? (no date). Do skinny people get more wrinkles?by Stephanie Watson. Available at: http://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/beauty/anti-aging/more-wrinkles.htm (Accessed: 7 February 2015).
Dry Skin (no date). Contents. Available at: http://www.ndhealthfacts.org/wiki/Dry_Skin (Accessed: 7 February 2015).
Posture and Body LanguagePart 1 (no date). Posture and Body Language. Available at: http://www.study-body-language.com/Posture-and-body-language.html (Accessed: 7 February 2015).

Monday 2 February 2015

Early Victorian Hairstyle Practice

In the early Victorian period the most common hairstyles were tied in a high or mid bun at the back, either with short jaw length curls framing the face, or a plait on either side looping round the ear. I gave both of these a try.



CURLY FRONT HAIRSTYLE -
1. Start by brushing through the hair
2. Using your tail comb, centre part the hair
3. Using your comb again, section off the front section of the hair in front of the ears.
4. Pin this hair away for now
5. Take the rest of the loose hair, and brush into a mid ponytail
6. Twist the ponytail round on itself to form a bun shape, then pin into place
7. Using a small barrel curling iron, curl the front section of the hair

Overall I was pleased for a first attempt,  but I think next time I practice this style I will section the front slightly further forward, as I think that the style looks almost bob like as too much hair is loose at the front. I would also like to try the style with an even smaller curling iron.



LOOPED PLAIT STYLE - 
1. Start by brushing through the hair
2. Using your tail comb, centre part the hair
3. Using your comb again, section off the front section of the hair in front of the ears.
4. Pin this hair away for now
5. Take the rest of the loose hair, and brush into a mid ponytail
6. Twist the ponytail round on itself to form a bun shape, then pin into place
7. Take down one of the front sections of hair and plait
8. Pin the plait so it loops over the ear, hanging around Jaw length and pin in place
9. Repeat on the other side


If attempting this style again I would make sure to leave slightly more hair free at the front creating a thicker looking plait to ensure there is enough weight around the jaw in the style


Great Expectations Miss Havisham Portrayals

The Book:
The story of Great Expectations follows a blacksmiths son named Pip, who falls in love with Estella, the daughter of Miss Havisham. Miss Havisham was left at the alter by the love of her life, and so has not left her house since the day of her wedding. Miss Havisham is set on living out her revenge on Men through her Daughter Estella, bringing her up to be cold hearted.

In the book Miss Havisham is described to be withering away and decaying as a result of her heartbreak her not leaving the house for so long...

'I saw that the bride within the bridal dress had withered like the dress, and like the flowers, and had no brightness left but the brightness of her sunken eyes... Now, wax-work and skeleton seemed to have dark eyes that moved and looked at me.'

'She was dressed in rich materials- satins, and lace, and silks- all of white. And she had a long white veil dependent from her hair, and she had bridal flowers in her hair, but her hair was white.'

Satis is house is also symbolic of Miss Havisham, decaying and rotten.

'It was then I began to understand that everything in the room had stopped, like the watch and the clock, a long time ago'

'An epergne or centre-piece of some kind was in the middle of this cloth; it was so heavily overhung with cobwebs that its form was quite undistinguishable; and, as I looked along the yellow expanse out of which I remember it seeming to grow, like a black fungus, I saw speckled-legged spiders with blotchy bodies running home to it, and running out from it...I heard the mice too, rattling behind the panels... the black-beetles took no notice of the agitation and groped about the earth in a ponderous elderly way'.

Film Portrayals of Miss Havisham

Florence Reed (1934)
I think is is one of the least visually accurate portrayals of Miss Havisham. Directed by Stuart Walker with make up done by Jack P Pierce, I don't find the make up or hair to be particularly reflective of the time period. Realistically, Miss Havisham's hairstyle should be from the late Georgian period as she would not have changed it for so long. 


Great Expectations (1934) Movie (no date). Great Expectations (1934). Available at: http://moviespictures.org/movie/Great_Expectations_1934 (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Martita Hunt (1946)
This film was Directed by David Lean with make up done by Ernest Gasser and George Blackler. I feel like the hair of Miss Havisham in this portrayal is much more true to the book, as it looks as though it has been worn high on the head (typical of the late Georgian period) but has fallen and become straggly with time. 














Movie classics (no date). Great Expectations (David Lean, 1946). Available at: https://movieclassics.wordpress.com/2012/12/20/great-expectations-david-lean-1946/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Margaret Leighton (1974)
This TV movie directed by Joseph Hardy was the first version of the Great Expectations story to be shown in colour. The make up for the production is very theatrical, you can see heavy shading has been applied to hollow out the face, and lines have been drawn on to create heavy wrinkles and give the effect of an older woman.

















Chung, S. (no date). Great Expectations: Film Productions. Available at: http://sophiechung-greatexpectations.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/film-productions.html (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Joan Hickson (1981)
This production was a TV series directed by Julian Amyes. The hair and make up was done by Gwen Arthy who has created an early Victorian Hairstyle for Miss Havisham. Personally I think that the hair should look a little messier, after years of not styling or even so much as washing it. 




















Handout (2011) Gillian Anderson, Helena Bonham Carter and Miss Havisham on filmCulture. 2011-11-22. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/culturepicturegalleries/8907506/Gillian-Anderson-Helena-Bonham-Carter-and-Miss-Havisham-on-film.html?image=16 (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Jean Simmons (1989)
Another TV Mini Series, this time starring Jean Simmons who played Estella in the 1946 film. The make up artist on the production was Eddie Knight, and hair was done by Eithne Fennel. 

















Gillian Anderson, Helena Bonham Carter and Miss Havisham on film(2011) Culture. 2011-11-22. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/culturepicturegalleries/8907506/Gillian-Anderson-Helena-Bonham-Carter-and-Miss-Havisham-on-film.html?image=15 (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Charlotte Rampling (1999)
The make up in this film was done by Fran Needham. I feel it is a very strange portrayal of Miss Havisham as Charlotte Rampling hasn't been obviously aged, her hair is not grey/white and the general feel of the make up and costume does not feel old, dated or dirty as it has been portrayed in the book. 

















Charlotte Rampling as Miss Havisham in Great Expectations in 1999. (no date). Miss Havisham. Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/291256300873954428/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Gillian Anderson (2011)
This TV Mini Series directed by Brian Kirk is what I think is the most accurate portrayal of Miss Havisham. Make up artist Adele Firth and make up designer Kirstin Chalmers have really thought through the character and the way she would look as a result of lack of sunlight, malnutrition and personal neglect. Her lips have been made to look extremely dry and flaky, which is a result of dehydration. I like this aspect as it is really well thought through and something no other make up artist portraying the character had thought about. The hair for this production is white and styled in an early Victorian style, which slowly falls and becomes even more unkempt throughout the series. 

















Gillian Anderson, Great Expectations (no date). 2013-02-20T00:00:00Z. Available at: http://www.tvchoicemagazine.co.uk/interviewextra/gillian-anderson-great-expectations (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

Helena Bonham Carter (2012)
The most recent portrayal of Miss Havisham was by Helena Bonham Carter, directed by Mike Newell. Before watching the movie I felt that Helena would be a perfect actress for the part of Miss Havisham, but afterwards I was left feeling like she could of done more to get into character and pick up some of Miss Havisham's mannerisms.  I do really like the Make up and hair that Jenny Shircore created for this film, Helena looks very naturally aged with her features sunken. Her hair is very late Georgian which is true to the setting of the book, and is very dishevelled and matted. I like the fact that the veil is still attached as it adds to the impression she hasn't touched it in years. 















TV&Showbiz (2011) ‘BAZ BAMIGBOYE: Helena’s bridal path to despair as Miss Havisham in Dickens' masterpiece’, 4 November. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2057429/Helena-Bonham-Carters-path-despair-Miss-Havisham-Dickens-masterpiece.html (Accessed: 2 February 2015).

















Connor, K. (1989) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (TV Mini-Series 1989). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0096601/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
Hardy, J. (1974) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (TV Movie 1974). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071576/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
Jarrold, J. (1999) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (TV Movie 1999). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0167187/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
Kirk, B. (2011) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (TV Mini-Series 2011). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1949720/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
Newell, M. (2012) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (2012). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1836808/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
None (no date) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (TV Mini-Series 1981). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0196254/fullcredits?ref_=tt_ov_st_sm (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
Walker, S. (1934) Great Expectations. Great Expectations (1934). Available at: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025202/ (Accessed: 2 February 2015).
(no date). Pictures & Photos from Great Expectations (1946) - IMDb. Available at: http://www.imdb.com/media/rm3516045312/tt0038574?ref_=tt_pv_md_3 (Accessed: 2 February 2015).